For years, I’ve been a massive fan of the tasting menu and overnight stay hotel combo. Recently, I’ve noticed their popularity surge and it’s wonderful to see incredible set menus paired with stylish stays in boutique rooms. Hadrian’s Hotel in the village of Wall in Hexham is one of those places that’s got it just right and there’s a few reasons why.

First off, it’s becoming increasingly common for travellers to book a hotel specifically because of its restaurant. There’s the shift in the luxury travel spend because more people want to indulge in fine dining as part of their holiday. And then there’s the location. Hadrian’s Hotel has a prime spot in close proximity to Hadrian’s Wall and even if you’re not a walker, you’ll know this area well for the infamous Sycamore Gap tree which was illegally felled.

For those in the know, the foodie scene in the North East is having something of a moment. And that’s largely down to some incredible chefs and business owners who’ve created some very special restaurants. Hide Bar and Bistro in Heaton gained itself somewhat of a stellar reputation and hundreds of its customers were sad to see it close. But owners Jack Brown and Alice Lawson (who still have the hugely successful Nest also in Heaton) had their sights set on something else – transforming Hadrian’s Hotel into a destination foodie hotel with their restaurant Willow.

Previously home to Michelin starred Hjem, Willow serves up an 8 course extravaganza which celebrates the seasons and is beautifully presented. Priced at £75pp (with paired wines priced at an additional £50pp,) each course shines the spotlight on its star – North Sea monkfish, Cumbrian lamb, lobster, or even just the humble shallot.

We start with a Sabelli-Frisch sparkling white, full of Californian sunshine with citrus and brioche – a gorgeous accompaniment to the shallot, old Winchester and tomato tart, full of creamy goodness and nutty caramel notes from the cheese.

A delicate taster dish follows of lobster, English pea from Hadrian’s Hotel garden and horseradish leaf. A real powerhouse of flavours, you get some good chunks of seafood with fresh pea and mild radish.

Duck liver parfait is divine – buttery smooth with a hint of earthiness, encased in a racing green mirror dome and served with traditional milk bread glazed with pineapple. Super rich contrasting butters slather on with a certain degree of satisfaction and spread easily because the bread is still lovely and warm – fresh out of the oven.

Heritage carrot and cod roe with langoustine is served with an Argentinian Gruner Veltliner with notes of grapefruit and florals which brings out the sweetness of the carrots, while the spicy notes are perfect with the smoke of the cod roe.

A good sized chunk of North Sea monkfish comes next – that wonderful sweet delicate flavour isn’t even slightly ‘fishy’, just tender and delicious, topped with peppery nasturtium and N25 caviar – a true delicacy that really lifts the monkfish. The Sugrue Bonkers’ take on chardonnay from the South Downs is a wonderful accompaniment – creamy texture, oaky and aromatic. Literally ‘wowing’ when enjoyed together, and our favourite pairing of the night.

Our last savoury dish is Cumbrian lamb, which if you’ve ever tried, has that distinctive flavour – a sort of earthy rich profile which is slightly gamey. Served with courgettes and girolles for a suitably umami taste, it’s paired with a Chateau Haut-Monplaisir Malbec – a good choice due to its tannins and acidity which cuts through the meat.

Dessert starts with an HJ Wiemer Reisling – those lush tropical and honey notes bring out the citrus notes in the lemon verbena with strawberry and white chocolate, and we finish with brown butter, carrot and mascarpone – a sort of deconstructed carrot cake with a nice velvety texture, fresh sweet carrot and spice.

With all good hotel tasting menus, the reward at the end of your incredibly indulgent meal is that you can retire to your room within minutes!

With 12 contemporary bedrooms – each one individually styled, we loved the light (and sunshine!) pouring in on the day we visited, from the two windows which both have gorgeous countryside views. Teal and terracotta, a nice rainfall shower and a big comfy bed to sleep off all that food, it’s a wonder we were able to manage breakfast the next morning which is served at the back of Willow restaurant overlooking the garden and greenhouse.

While Hadrian’s Hotel is only 35 minutes from Newcastle, you really do feel like you’re out in the middle of nowhere. We’d highly recommend it for the perfect tasting menu and overnight stay combo. Book here.

 

 

 

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