Monocle’s guide to looking your best at every occasion: Six ways to master your wardrobe
Dear reader, my name is Pablo and I am Monocle’s man about town. I’m a gent for all seasons and have a wardrobe that always comes to my rescue, whatever the occasion. I never have a hair out of place (unless tousled is what I’m after) and am ever the dress-code nailer. Monocle’s editors have asked me to impart some sartorial rules to play by for six given situations – including what you’ll need to see you through a weekend away, a sport session (I always like to keep things nice and firm) and a day out in the city.
From the basics to set you up for the day to the white suit and leather-sole dancing shoes that will see you through the night, my rules for getting dressed pair common sense with recommendations for the brands that you need to know – usually picked up on my travels to Bangkok, Paris, Lisbon and Tokyo.
If there’s a connecting line in my approach to getting dressed, it’s investing wisely in well-made clothes that will last a lifetime. That is, admittedly, not ground-breaking advice. But it’s worth reminding yourself of this when the temptation to totally overhaul your wardrobe takes hold. Personal style is an art form that requires honesty and self-reflection. Is the shoulder on that white T-shirt as flattering as it could be? Do I have what it takes to pull off those shorts? Almost certainly… but it’s worth considering.
And never lose sight of wearability. Beautiful loafers will lose their appeal if they make you hobble. I’m also a believer in the idea that good clothes are not the main event but rather a support system for a life well lived. At its best, getting dressed is the first step in a day that is packed with places to be and people to see. Ready? Let’s go.
Style tip 1: Perfect your basics
Starting from a strong foundation is key. Nailing socks, undies and beauty-cabinet essentials – unsung heroes all – requires as discerning an eye as it takes to pick out a statement coat.
Rise and shine
Starting my day in a pair of pyjamas from Spain’s Denis Camisería makes waking up feel like a main event. How to describe this feeling? The cat’s… whiskers.
Stay surefooted
There’s no better sensation than sliding toes-first into these tatami-and-leather slippers made by Japanese brand Liberato. Arch support is key to making great strides.
Shower time
I grab my pillowy towels purchased on a recent trip to Japan. There’s no finer option for drying yourself off than those manufactured in Imabari.
Precise flow
Bangkok-based brand The Oba makes the perfect shower gel with which to lather up under a high-pressure pump by German brand Dornbracht.
Keep it brief
Briefs or Y-fronts offer anatomical support and natural alignment without compression. Mey’s pants bring German engineering to the undergarment.
Debate at length
“High socks, high standards” is my motto – but there’s also a time and a place for a can’t-see-’em pair sourced from Muji. Otherwise, it’s Tabio.
Winter warmer
New Zealand’s Icebreaker makes merino-fibre thermal shirts and pants that naturally trap in heat (an ideal ice-breaker for a first date with winter).
Cabinet of curiosities
Skincare products are as close to five-star treatment as I can get at 08.00. Chanel for fragrance and Nivea for deodorant is a fool-proof high-low combination
Style tip 2: Look the business
The investors are in town so be ready. People often suggest starting with trousers and building an outfit from there – but where’s the fun in that? Pick a shirt and keep the slacks lacking for now. It’s showtime.
Get steamy
No, not like that. Ironing or steaming is the most effective way to elevate your outfit. Swedish brand Steamery makes a packable version that cleans your clothes while making them crisp.
Shirt and sweet
It’s a choice between an Oxford by New York-based Gitman Vintage or a linen number by Naples’ Finamore. Both are made from fine fibres that will leave you feeling au naturel.
Knot to be
Not every day is a tie day but when you need to get knotted, elect for something chic. Milan-based Bigi Cravatte has a range to complement any shirt.
Tailor made
Let’s hear it for bespoke. My suit by Swedish atelier Saman Amel is second to none.
Blazer glory
For something off the peg, the Ring Jacket from The Armoury or United Arrows’ double-breasted mohair never miss.
Watch your step
If you’re pounding the pavement and your city doesn’t have clear skies, opt for a rubber sole. JM Weston’s 180 is best for a polished look, though I do have a penchant for a Paraboot lace-up.
Style tip 3: Sportswear essentials for your kit bag
How can you look dashing on a run? Ask yourself what you’re running from (a poorly dressed version of yourself is an excellent motivator). So before you get into your stride, let’s consider the following.
Cool runnings
Whether it’s race day or a gentle lap of the lake, catch me in head-to-toe Hereness. The Japanese brand’s Drytouch technology keeps its shorts and tops from clinging.
A bigger splash
Swimwear label Arena makes the best gear if you’re not afraid of getting your kit off. It’s figure-hugging and shows off a little thigh. Don’t fret, you will look great.
Hold court
Net a matching set with shorts and shirt by Palmes. And Notace makes the best all-rounder shoe, whether you’re on clay, grass or heading to the gym. Mine are Kotos in white and green.
Slap on the wristwatch
You will need a timepiece that’s capable of taking a beating. The Aurelia Aurita by Swatch is as happy in the pool as on the pitch.
Top gear
Copenhagen’s Pas Normal Studios makes cycling wear that looks good even when you’re just a blur, hitting 45km/h on a steep descent.
Leading the pack
It’s Kyoto-based Ichizawa Hanpu’s Boston Bag made for Trunk – thanks for asking. And yes, it carries everything that you could possibly need – even a lightweight Goldwin jacket for the journey home.
Style tip 4: How to pack at pace
Time for a change of scene. I’m an advocate for life on the move – it keeps things interesting. When it comes to packing for a sunny escape, don’t overthink things. My list strips it all back to the basics.
Compact case
Having a well-stocked toiletry bag at the ready is the first step to a successful pack. I opt for a leather number by Viennese brand R Horns.
Full look
The combination of a white T-shirt from Kotn, cord shorts from La Paz and sandals from Hender Scheme is a winner. For trunks, it has to be Ripa Ripa.
Pack it in
My suitcase of choice is by Japanese brand Proteca, for its 360-degree opening system. Packing light is the only option – no more than what fits into an overhead compartment, please.
Wheel it
Monocle’s trolley tote is the perfect companion for a weekend escape. I secure it over my suitcase and always feel confident that nothing will slip out, thanks to its zip closure.
Smarten up
Finally, I make sure to pack an effortless evening look for dinner or a sundowner. A shirt from Japanese label A Presse or French brand Arpenteur never strays from good taste.
Style tip 5: Feel at ease in the city
You might not have an occasion to dress up for this weekend but being on home turf is no excuse for looking slapdash. You don’t know who you’ll meet or what’s to come. Let’s hit the town.
Dream coat
A good blouson jacket will go the distance with you. Mine’s a cashmere piece from Zegna in a fetching tan, though I have a dark indigo suede version too.
Selvedge the situation
Kaptain Sunshine is known for its outerwear but its denim is overlooked. It’s an everyday staple only matched by Luca Faloni’s cashmere weave jeans.
Raise your head
Picking a “stealth wealth” cap is never as simple as people think. So just get the best one: Vienna milliner Mühlbauer’s linen cap should do.
In your own time
You can still be flashy while comfortable – and the Cartier Tortue is a case in point. Its delicate shape has been turning heads since 1912.
Good in the hood
Was your jumper made on a tsuriamiki? I bet it wasn’t. The best sweatshirts are made by Loopwheeler on rare Japanese knitting machines that create soft, tubular fabrics.
Style tip 6: Life of the party
It’s time to cut loose – you deserve it. You don’t need a wardrobe overhaul every time you step out for the night. Sometimes, all it takes is a subtle change of sole or colour to achieve the right effect.
Keep it trim
Head to Cut Salon Ban in Tokyo or Bento in Lisbon, where you should ask for a classic Portuguese style that’ll make you look like you own a vineyard or a football team.
Scent and sensibility
After-dinner events are always a chance to turn it up with a louder scent. Fragrances from Wienerblut or Loewe are just the ticket.
Dancing shoes
The right footwear helps me on the dance floor. It has to be JM Weston again – but now with a leather sole.
White nights
Put on a white suit. Yes, really. Unsurprisingly, the Italians do it best. Get one from luxury menswear brand Caruso and don’t look back (but do try to avoid spills).
Suit up
I checked in with The Decorum in Bangkok, where I bought this double-breasted pinstripe number. Finally I own a suit that I actually want to wear to more formal occasions.
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