Between the station, offices and constant stream of people heading somewhere else, Victoria has never screamed dinner destination to me. We dined at TOZI to test that theory.

Hidden away on Gillingham Street, around five minutes from Victoria Station, TOZI sits slightly apart from the area’s usual bustle. You really could walk straight past without knowing it was there, and I’d say that’s part of its charm.

A-Lister Impressions

Inside, it immediately feels warmer and more intimate than its location might suggest. The lighting is low, candles flicker across the tables and the restaurant is split into several distinct little areas, meaning it works just as well for date night as it does for a catch-up with friends.

We were seated on a slightly raised section by the windows, which gave us a brilliant view across the restaurant. At the back, there’s an open kitchen where you can watch dishes being cooked and plated, while another counter sees busy hands prepping cured meats and cheeses. Vintage Italian photography lines the walls, while a retro Italian film playing in the background grounds the restaurant’s sense of place.

There are bigger tables for groups too, but the overall atmosphere feels grown-up and intimate. But get this. We’re not the only ones who know about it.

At one point during dinner, British actor Bill Nighy (Love Actually!) wandered through before quietly taking a table towards the back. Nobody bothered him, nobody made a scene and everything carried on as normal. It somehow summed TOZI up perfectly: discreet, relaxed and very much on the hitlist of people who know where to go.

The restaurant has actually been here for more than a decade and is still in the hands of its original team, which might explain why everything feels so slick and assured.

What’s The Food Like At TOZI?

The menu takes its inspiration from Venice’s osterias, with cicchetti-style dishes made for sharing. It makes perfect sense, especially when you learn that TOZI itself is an affectionate Venetian slang word for a close-knit group of friends.

But don’t mistake “small plates” for tiny portions. We found most dishes surprisingly generous, and it’s very easy to build a proper dinner depending on how hungry you are.

It’s also much more interesting than a predictable line-up of carbonara and spaghetti Bolognese. The current menu jumps between raw dishes, fritti, cured meats and cheeses, pasta, grilled fish and meat, with tasty combinations including buffalo ricotta ravioli with black truffle.

We started with bread and olive oil, before moving on to the tuna tartare with chilli, lime and rocket. Fresh, light and just sharp enough, I loved eating it alongside the crisp bread on the table.

Alongside it came the zucchini fritti, one of the restaurant’s classics. There was a mountain of it, far more than I was expecting, but it’s exactly the sort of dish you absent-mindedly keep reaching for while talking. Light, crisp and salty, it does a very good job of whetting the appetite.

Pasta, Pasta, Pasta

We opted for two pastas to share. The first was the paccheri with braised baby octopus, tomato and basil, which was probably my favourite of the two. The tomato sauce had just enough acidity to keep it fresh, while the octopus made it feel a little more luxe than something I’d ever attempt to recreate at home.

We balanced that with the rustichelle with peas, asparagus and Tuscan pecorino. This was much greener and lighter, without being drowned in cheese or cream. It felt fresh and worked really well alongside the richer tomato pasta.

The Dish I’d Go Back For

Our standout, however, was the fish. We had the chargrilled wild sea bass, served whole for sharing. This was one of those dishes where you barely had to touch the fish with your fork before it melted away.

Perfectly cooked, incredibly tender and finished with herby salsa verde and a squeeze of lemon, it was deceptively simple yet 100% delicious.

What To Drink At TOZI

The drinks list obviously deserves a whole lot of attention too.

TOZI has an entirely Italian-focused wine offering, including bottles from smaller producers across the country’s different regions, making this a great spot to order a bottle and settle in for the evening.

We visited as the restaurant was gearing up for Negroni Week, which felt particularly appropriate. Negroni fans are especially well looked after here, with a dedicated trolley offering eight different takes on the classic, including options stirred tableside.

Save Room For Dessert

The Amalfi lemon, ricotta and pine nut tart with raspberry sorbet was exactly what I wanted after everything we’d eaten: creamy but still sharp and fresh, with the raspberry cutting through the richness.

Other options currently include pistachio tiramisu, chocolate delice with crème Anglaise and, a TOZI affogato. I was very tempted by the latter, but by this point it was nearing 9.30pm and caffeine felt like an unnecessarily aggressive life choice.

My friend did, however, insist on ending proceedings with a limoncello, because she believes the true test of any Italian restaurant is the quality of its post-dinner shot. Of course, TOZI passed (them all).

Book your table here.

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